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Morocco That Was, by Walter Harris

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Here are the vanished days of the unfettered Sultanate in all their dark, melodramatic splendor-a mingling of magnificence with squalor, culture with barbarism, refined cruelty with naive humor. Until 1912 Morocco never suffered foreign domination, and its mountainous interior was as closed to foreigners as Tibet. WALTER HARRIS (1866-1933), though, was the exception. He first visited in 1887 and lived in the country for more than thirty-five years, and as the Times correspondent had observed every aspect of its life. He was an intimate of at least three of the ruling Sultans (as well as King Edward VII) and a man capable even of befriending his kidnapper. It was said that only three Christians had ever visited the walled city of Chechaouen: one was poisoned, one came for an hour disguised as a rabbi, and the other was Harris. Originally published in 1921, Morocco That Was is alternately sharp, melodramatic, and extremely funny. The combination of perceptive and reliable observer, and romantic eccentric, makes this book a classic of its genre.""- Times Literary Supplement.
- Sales Rank: #4050263 in Books
- Published on: 2003-06-13
- Ingredients: Example Ingredients
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: .69" h x 5.44" w x 8.50" l, .72 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 246 pages
Review
"This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny" Rough Guide to Morocco
"This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny" Rough Guide to Morocco
No Englishman knows Morocco better than Mr. W.B. Harris, and his new book, mainly about Mulai Abdul Aziz, Mulai Hafid, and Raisuli, is most entertaining. Mr. Harris devotes a long and interesting chapter to the brigand chief Raisuli. --Spectator
The combination of perceptive and reliable observer, and romantic eccentric, makes this book a classic of its genre. --Times Literary Supplement
This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny --Rough Guide to Morocco
No Englishman knows Morocco better than Mr. W.B. Harris, and his new book, mainly about Mulai Abdul Aziz, Mulai Hafid, and Raisuli, is most entertaining. Mr. Harris devotes a long and interesting chapter to the brigand chief Raisuli. --The Spectator
This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny --Rough Guide to Morocco
No Englishman knows Morocco better than Mr. W.B. Harris, and his new book, mainly about Mulai Abdul Aziz, Mulai Hafid, and Raisuli, is most entertaining. Mr. Harris devotes a long and interesting chapter to the brigand chief Raisuli. Spectator --Strong
This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny --Rough Guide to Morocco
No Englishman knows Morocco better than Mr. W.B. Harris, and his new book, mainly about Mulai Abdul Aziz, Mulai Hafid, and Raisuli, is most entertaining. Mr. Harris devotes a long and interesting chapter to the brigand chief Raisuli. Spectator --strong
This book is brilliant - sharp, melodramatic & extremely funny --Rough Guide to Morocco
About the Author
Walter Harris was born in London in 1866, one of seven children of a prosperous business man. After schooling at Harrow and a short time at Cambridge, he left England to travel, and managed to visit Constantinople, India, Egypt, Archangel, Yemen and South Africa before settling in Tangier at the age of 20. He worked as a journalist, eventually salaried on The Times, continued to travel, like an English Indiana Jones, to areas of the Middle East never previously visited by Europeans, and built four houses in Tangier. He married once, though he was predominantly homosexual, and died of a stroke in 1933.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Great sense of the way it was
By Sandra
Loved the colorful storhtelling
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
fascinating
By kaioatey
Harris was a Times correspondent from the 1900s Morocco who witnessed the tumultuous transition from quasi-independent sultanate to French occupation. Yet he was also much more - an insider with access to the court and the sultan, someone who could move with relative freedom across the country occupied by a rapacious government, semi-independent Berber tribes, prosperous Jews who were mostly left to their devices milking hapless Arabs through any imaginable sort of trade, assorted bandits and Italian, Spanish and German spies. Morocco was a strategic pawn in the maneuvering between European powers; Harris documents with tragic precision how Europeans manipulated the hapless well-meaning but weak sultan Mulai Abdul Aziz with gimmicks, tricks and toys. The country was held together by force represented by sultan's army and sultan himself - capricious, unfair, childlike, brutal, controlled by a scheming vizier yet, in a weird way, innocent. Everyone was out to deceive him and suck him dry, so sultan used Harris as (perhaps his only trustworthy) adviser for politics, etiquette, European gadgetry and fun. Harris, after all, was a pukka sahib in the best possible sense of that designation, with an unflappable confidence and courage of the English gentleman (they don't make'em anymore).
There are priceless descriptions of the country and its people. Audiences with the sultan, sumptuous meals, court intrigues. Harris has much affection for the country even as he documents the cruelty, avarice, brutality, naivete, sufferings - but also generosity and expansiveness of its people. Then, as today, walking the corridors of the casbah meant every man for himself. In Harris' view, the French brought sorely needed stability to the country, together with the security and prosperity to the middle classes of Morocco. One can see the legacy of the French today in the roads, the language and bureaucracy.
The book is often light-hearted and funny. It's also sad even a bit incredulous when describing the sufferings of the people at the hands of the powerful. Above all, it provides a priceless glimpse in a world that was. If you are contemplating a visit - read this book.
25 of 26 people found the following review helpful.
Absorbing account of turn of the century Morocco
By A Customer
Walter Harris, London Times correspondant and 30 year inhabitant of Tangier, delivers the diffinitive account of pre-protectorate Morocco and the Moroccan Royal Courts. This eyewitness account of an ancient culture coming to grips with an overwhelming Western influence is both absorbing and hillarious to the point of disbelief. Harris' tales of Berber rebels and a matter-of-fact Sultanry, in addition to his coverage of the inevitabile process of European colonialization, captures the loss of innocence which befell a still vital land. A must read for anyone interested in North African history.
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